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Climbing Goals for 2020

2020 Climbing Goals: Here are my ideas so far for some goals for the year. They will likely become more specific over the course of the year: General Repoint 15 Traditional 5.10 (5 > .10c | 5 multipitch): The Fracture (5.10d) South Tahoe, CA redpoint God of Thunder (5.10c var) South Tahoe, CA redpoint Sinbad-Herbert […]

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Arc’teryx Beta SV Bib Pant

After several years of snowboarding in the backcountry I knew my old, baggy snowboarding pants weren’t cutting it anymore. They were heavy and the insulation was built in so I had no temperature control. If I was in deep powder, snow would get up my back and down my pants. It was miserable. Because I […]

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Climbing Goals for 2019 Season

2019 Goals: For 2019, I’m guessing that this post will morph and evolve over the next six months as I sort of reshape my goals for the year. For now, I would like to just kind of spit out some ideas that are starting to form in my head and fill in the gaps throughout […]

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Finishing Up My 2018 Goals

Every year, I try to set up a list of achievable climbing goals that will help me focus on improving the areas where I am the weakest. In 2018, my main focus was pushing grades. I focused on number grades as a benchmark for where I wanted to be as a climber. I didn’t quite […]

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Climbing the Direct North Ridge of Mount Stuart in Washington (5.9+ | 2,900ft)

In the summer of last year (2017), we attempted the Direct North Ridge on Mount Stuart, but retreated once we reached the notch about 1,500ft up the route. Storm clouds had completely covered the peak above, and without sufficient rain gear, we were afraid we would become hypothermic if we got wet. We figured our […]

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Ellingwood Ledges Direct Start (5.7) | Colorado Alpinism

We began our hike in around 4:00am and made our way to the base of the direct start of the Ellingwood Arete. With two teams of two, Martin and Brent started up the first, 5.5/5.6 pitch while Kim and I waited restlessly to begin. Kim and I started climbing once Brent had made some progress […]

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Climbing Open Book on Lone Peak in the Wasatch (5.7 | 4 Pitches)

Lone Peak Cirque is one of the most amazing places that the Wasatch has to offer in terms of scenery and awesome, high quality granite climbing. The hike is steep and grueling, but once you enter the meadow at the top of Jacob’s Ladder, the cirque comes into view and the steep hiking is behind […]

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Climbing the Mountaineer’s Route on Elephant’s Perch (Video) | Sawtooth Mountains, Idaho

A few weeks ago, my friend Kirk and I were trying to decide on an adventure. Being from Salt Lake, we had plans to go to Yosemite, but ended up not working out for the timeframe that we wanted. We did have a couple days to make something happen, so the Elephant’s Perch stood out […]

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Climbing Horns of Satan (.10c | 8 Pitches) on Devil’s Castle at Alta, Utah

I had done a little bit of reading about Black Streak on Devil’s Castle before my friend suggested the neighboring route “Horns of Satan.” I am glad he did. The route is traditional protection, but because it is Limestone, it is mostly bolted and incredibly chossy. The harder sections are very well bolted and incredibly […]

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Climbing the Thumb in Little Cottonwood Canyon (5.7, 10 pitches)

The Thumb isn’t the greatest climb in Little Cottonwood, but it is an aesthetic feature within the canyon. With 10 or 11 pitches of 5.7, it sounded like an awesome adventure to Kirk, Wes and me. We met at the Gate parking at 6am and began hiking to the base shortly after. By 7am, we […]

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