Climbing Goals for 2019 Season

Home » Blog » Trek Type » Alpine Climbing » Climbing Goals for 2019 Season

2019 Goals:

For 2019, I’m guessing that this post will morph and evolve over the next six months as I sort of reshape my goals for the year. For now, I would like to just kind of spit out some ideas that are starting to form in my head and fill in the gaps throughout the first part of the year:

General

Repoint 20 Traditional 5.10s:

  1. Nubbins to Nowhere (.10d) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
  2. Minions of Chaos (5.10+) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
  3. Hyperform (5.10b) Lone Peak Cirque, UT onsight
  4. Hell Raiser (.10b | 2 Pitches) Hellgate | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
  5. Talk Me Off the Ledge (5.10b) Alta, UT redpoint (FA)
  6. Social Engineering (5.10a/b) Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
  7. Plasma (.10a) | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
  8. Deface Crack (.10a) | Saint George, UT onsight
  9. Ad Lib (.10a) | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
  10. Sour Mash (.10a) | Red Rock Canyon, UT onsight
  11. Prince of Darkness (.10a) | Red Rock Canyon, UT onsight
  12. Sportin’ a Woody (.10a) | City of Rocks, ID flash
  13. Red Warrior (.10a) | Saint George, UT redpoint
  14. Tarzan (.10a) | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
  15. Disco Duck (.10a) | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
  16. Equipment Right (.10b)
  17. The Flakes? (.10b)

Repoint 20 Sport 5.11s (5 that are .11c+ | 5 onsight/flash)

  1. Superintendent Limp Dicks (.11d) B-52 Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT redpoint (second try)
  2. Litmus Test (.11c) Division Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT onsight
  3. Captain Tight Pants (.11c) Serenity Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT redpoint (second try)
  4. Till Hell Freezes Over (.11b | 3 pitches) Hellgate | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
  5. Hyperbole (.11b PG-13) Talk Wall | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
  6. Shiny (.11b) Serenity Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT onsight
  7. Sudden Pleasure (.11b) Parking Lot Rock | City of Rocks, ID redpoint
  8. The Spine (.11b) Haus Rock | Keystone, CO redpoint
  9. Oh Captain! My Captain! (.11a) Serenity Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT onsight
  10. Hero Of Canton (.11a) Serenity Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT onsight
  11. Bears Ears (.11a) Maple Canyon, UT onsight
  12. Worthy Whoopsy (.11a) Challenge Buttress | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
  13. UnNamed (.11-) The Pile | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint (x2)
  14. Suspect (first pitch | .11a) B-52 Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT flash
  15. Director of Humor Affairs (.11a) Turtle Wall | Saint George, UT flash
  16. Riding on an Incline (.11a) Provo Wall | City of Rocks, ID redpoint
  17. Neuromancer (.11a) Pentapitch Area | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
  18. Body Bag (.11a) Escape Buttress | American Fork Canyon, UT redpoint
  19. Walk the Plank (.11-) The Narrows | Stansbury Mountains, UT redpoint (x2)
  20. Black Monday (.11a) S-Curves | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint (repeat)
  21. Punany (.11b/c)
  22. Edge of Chaos (.11b/c)
  23. Division (.11d)

Redpoint 5 Trad 5.11s

  1. Last First Crack (.11b/c) Gate Area | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
  2. Force of Nature (5.11a) Dead Snag Area | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT flash
  3. Neuromancer (.11a) Pentapitch Area | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
  4. Scarface (.11b)
  5. Tick Fever (.11a)
  6. Equipment Overhang (.11a)

Repoint 5 Sport 5.12s (2 that are 12b+):

  1. Left Pile (.12b) S Curves | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
  2. Hype Dependent (.12a/b) Schoolroom | Ogden, UT redpoint
  3. All Chalk and No Action (.12a) Green A Gully | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
  4. Refiner (.12a) The Narrows | Stansbury Mountains, UT redpoint (second try)
  5. Black Sails (.12a/b)
  6. Highlander (.12a)
  7. Pile Surgery (.12a)

First Ascents

Put up a new route of each climbing style

  1. Bombardier (.10a/b | 1 Pitches) B-52 | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight (FA | sport)
  2. Talk Me Off The Ledge (.10b | 4 Pitches) Mount Superior | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint (FA | trad)
  3. Walk up the Slide (V3) Farmington Canyon, UT send (FA | boulder)

Multi Pitch

Repoint 1 5.12 Bolted (4+ pitches):

Redpoint 1 Gear-Only 5.11 (4+ pitches)

Redpoint 5 Traditional 5.10s (4+ pitches)

  1. Minions of Chaos (.10+ | 4 Pitches) Tanner’s Gluch | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
  2. Talk Me Off The Ledge (.10b | 4 Pitches) Mount Superior | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint (FA)
  3. Hell Raiser (.10b | 2 Pitches) Hellgate | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight (*bolted 5.10 pitch)
  4. Prince of Darkness (.10b | 4 Pitches) Black Velvet Canyon | Red Rocks, NV onsight
  5. Sour Mash (.10a | 7 Pitches) Black Velvet Canyon | Red Rocks, NV onsight

Redpoint 5 Multi Pitch (5.11b+ bolts & gear):

  1. Till Hell Freezes Over (.11b | 3 pitches) Hellgate | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
  2. Levitation 29 (.11b/c | 9 pitches)

Alpine Rock

Climb 5 Multipitch Alpine Rock Routes

  1. Hyperform (5.10b | 4 pitches) Lone Peak Cirque, UT onsight (fell on the “easier” endurance pitch)
  2. Talk Me Off The Ledge (.10b | 4 Pitches) Mount Superior | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint (FA)
  3. Lotus Flower Tower (5.10+ | 18 pitches) BC, Canada
  4. Regular Route (5.9 | 8+ pitches) The Diamond | Long’s Peak, CO
  5. Petzoldt Ridge (5.7 | 18 pitches) Grand Teton | Jackson, WY

Climb 3 N.A. 50 Classic Climbs

  1. East Buttress (.10c | 11 pitches) Middle Cathedral | Yosemite, CA
  2. Royal Arches (.10- | 15 pitches) Yosemite, CA
  3. Regular Route (5.9 | 8+ pitches) Fairview Dome | Yosemite, CA

Bouldering

Climb 5 V4s

  1. Shit (V4) Joe’s Valley, UT flash
  2. Surfboard (V4) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT send
  3. Smiley Right (V4) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT send x2
  4. Jim (V4) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT send
  5. Pee Wee (V4) Joe’s Valley, UT send
  6. Tequila Sunset (V4) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT

Climb 2 V5s

  1. Contact (V5) Joe’s Valley, UT send
  2. Smiley Center (V5) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT

Climb 1 V6

  1. Smiley Left (V6) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
  2. Round Room (V6) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT

ICE

Lead 5 WI3 Routes

  1. Great White Icicle (WI3 | 4 Pitches) onsight (x5)
  2. Squash Head (WI4 | 2 pitches) onsight
  3. Battle Creek Falls (WI3+) onsight
  4. The Pricecicle (WI3)
  5. Willard Canyon Waterfall (WI2-3 | 4 pitches)

ALPINE

Climb 3 Technical Peaks (AI2-3)

  1. Liberty Ridge | Mount Rainer (AI2-3 | Grade IV)
  2. Reid Glacier Headwall | Mount Hood (AI3 | Grade III)
  3.     or

  4. Leuthold Couloir | Mount Hood (AI2 | Grade II)
  5. Ford – Stettner Couloir | Grand Teton (AI2-3 | Grade II)
  6.     or

  7. Middle Teton Glacier Route | Middle Teton (5.5, AI2 | Grade II)

Climb 1 Foreign peak above 17,000 ft

  1. Sajama (21,460 ft) | Bolivia/Chile

Climb 1 Foreign peak above 20,000 ft

  1. Sajama (21,460 ft) | Bolivia/Chile

Climb 3 US peaks above 14,000 ft

  1. Greys Peak (14,259 ft)
  2. Torreys Peak (14,259 ft)
  3. Mount Massive (14,429 ft)

SPLITBOARD MOUNTAINEERING

Climb and Ski from the summit of 5 Mountains (1 technical | 1 above 14k ft)

  1. Mount Superior | East Ridge –> Cardiac Chutes (S3)
  2. Broad’s Fork Twins | East Ridge –> Lisa Falls Couloir (S4)
  3. Baldy Peak (11,068 ft) | North Ridge –> Little Chute (S4) / Main Chute (S3+) – Alta, UT
  4. Mount Adams | South Route
  5. Mount Whitney | Mountaineers Route
  6. Mount Hood | Pearly Gates

Gym

Boulder 3 V8s
Boulder 30 V7s
Redpoint 5.13a
Train during the summer

Leave a Comment