2019 Goals:
For 2019, I’m guessing that this post will morph and evolve over the next six months as I sort of reshape my goals for the year. For now, I would like to just kind of spit out some ideas that are starting to form in my head and fill in the gaps throughout the first part of the year:
General
Repoint 20 Traditional 5.10s:
- Minions of Chaos (5.10+) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- Nubbins to Nowhere (5.10b/c) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
- Hyperform | Pitch 2 (5.10b) Lone Peak Cirque, UT onsight
- Hell Raiser (5.10b | 2 Pitches) Hellgate | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- Talk Me Off the Ledge (5.10b) Alta, UT redpoint (FA)
- Social Engineering (5.10a/b) Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- Weed B Gone | Pitch 1 (5.10- PG-13) | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- Plasma (5.10a) | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- Deface Crack (5.10a) | Saint George, UT onsight
- Ad Lib (5.10a) | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- Sour Mash (5.10a) | Red Rock Canyon, UT onsight
- Prince of Darkness (5.10a) | Red Rock Canyon, UT onsight
- Sportin’ a Woody (5.10a) | City of Rocks, ID flash
- Red Warrior (5.10a) | Saint George, UT redpoint
- Tarzan (5.10a) | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
- Disco Duck (5.10a) | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
- Equipment Right (5.10b)
- The Flakes? (5.10b)
Repoint 20 Sport 5.11s (5 that are .11c+ | 5 onsight/flash)
- Superintendent’s Limp Dick (5.11d) B-52 Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT redpoint (second try)
- Litmus Test (5.11c) Division Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT onsight
- Captain Tight Pants (5.11c) Serenity Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT redpoint (second try)
- Till Hell Freezes Over (5.11b | 3 pitches) Hellgate | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- Hyperbole (5.11b PG-13) Talk Wall | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- Shiny (5.11b) Serenity Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT onsight
- Sudden Pleasure (5.11b) Parking Lot Rock | City of Rocks, ID redpoint
- The Spine (5.11b) Haus Rock | Keystone, CO redpoint
- Oh Captain! My Captain! (5.11a) Serenity Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT onsight
- Hero Of Canton (5.11a) Serenity Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT onsight
- Bears Ears (5.11a) Maple Canyon, UT onsight
- Worthy Whoopsy (5.11a) Challenge Buttress | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- UnNamed (5.11-) The Pile | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint (x2)
- Suspect | Pitch 1 (5.11a) B-52 Wall | American Fork Canyon, UT flash
- Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a) Turtle Wall | Saint George, UT flash
- Riding on an Incline (5.11a) Provo Wall | City of Rocks, ID redpoint
- Neuromancer (5.11a) Pentapitch Area | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
- Body Bag (5.11a) Escape Buttress | American Fork Canyon, UT redpoint
- Walk the Plank (5.11-) The Narrows | Stansbury Mountains, UT redpoint (x2)
- Black Monday (5.11a) S-Curves | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint (repeat)
- Punany (.11b/c)
- Edge of Chaos (.11b/c)
- Division (.11d)
Redpoint 5 Trad 5.11s
- Last First Crack (5.11b/c) Gate Area | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
- Force of Nature (5.11a) Dead Snag Area | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT flash
- Neuromancer (5.11a) Pentapitch Area | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
- Scarface (5.11b)
- Tick Fever (5.11a)
- Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
Repoint 5 Sport 5.12s (2 that are 12b+):
- Left Pile (5.12b) S Curves | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
- Hype Dependent (5.12a/b) Schoolroom | Ogden, UT redpoint
- All Chalk and No Action (5.12a) Green A Gully | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint
- Refiner (5.12a) The Narrows | Stansbury Mountains, UT redpoint (second try)
- Black Sails (5.12a/b)
- Highlander (5.12a)
- Pile Surgery (5.12a)
First Ascents
Put up a new route of each climbing style
- Sport Route () American Fork Cottonwood Canyon, UT
- Talk Me Off The Ledge (5.10b | 4 Pitches – Gear) Mount Superior | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint (FA | trad)
- Walk up the Slide (V3) Farmington Canyon, UT send (FA | boulder)
Multi Pitch
Repoint 1 5.12 Bolted (4+ pitches):
Redpoint 1 Trad 5.11+ (3+ pitches)
- Weed Killer – Weed B Gone (5.11c/d) | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT fell/hung (so close to onsight)
Redpoint 5 Traditional 5.10s (4+ pitches)
- Minions of Chaos (5.10+ | 4 Pitches) Tanner’s Gluch | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- Talk Me Off The Ledge (5.10b | 4 Pitches) Mount Superior | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint (FA)
- Hell Raiser (5.10b | 2 Pitches) Hellgate | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight (*bolted 5.10 pitch)
- Prince of Darkness (5.10b | 4 Pitches) Black Velvet Canyon | Red Rocks, NV onsight
- Sour Mash (5.10a | 7 Pitches) Black Velvet Canyon | Red Rocks, NV onsight
Redpoint 5 Multi Pitch (5.11b+ bolts or gear):
- Weed Killer – Weed B Gone (5.11c/d) | Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT fell/hung (so close to onsight)
- Till Hell Freezes Over (.11b | 3 pitches) Hellgate | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT onsight
- Levitation 29 (.11b/c | 9 pitches)
Alpine Rock
Climb 5 Multipitch Alpine Rock Routes
- Hyperform (5.10b | 4 pitches) Lone Peak Cirque, UT onsight (fell on the “easier” endurance pitch)
- Talk Me Off The Ledge (5.10b | 4 Pitches) Mount Superior | Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT redpoint (FA)
- Lotus Flower Tower (5.10+ | 18 pitches) BC, Canada
- Regular Route (5.9 | 8+ pitches) The Diamond | Long’s Peak, CO
- Petzoldt Ridge (5.7 | 18 pitches) Grand Teton | Jackson, WY
Climb 3 N.A. 50 Classic Climbs
- East Buttress (5.10c | 11 pitches) Middle Cathedral | Yosemite, CA
- Royal Arches (5.10- | 15 pitches) Yosemite, CA
- Regular Route (5.9 | 8+ pitches) Fairview Dome | Yosemite, CA
Bouldering
Climb 5 V4s
- Shit (V4) Joe’s Valley, UT flash
- Surfboard (V4) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT send
- Smiley Right (V4) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT send x2
- Jim (V4) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT send
- Pee Wee (V4) Joe’s Valley, UT send
- Weigh Cow (V4) Ibex, UT send x2
- Tequila Sunset (V4) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Climb 2 V5s
- Contact (V5) Joe’s Valley, UT send
- unknown (V5) Ibex, UT send
- Smiley Center (V5) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Climb 1 V6
- Smiley Left (V6) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
- Round Room (V6) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
ICE
Lead 5 WI3 Routes
- Great White Icicle (WI3 | 4 Pitches) onsight (x5)
- Squash Head (WI4 | 2 pitches) onsight
- Battle Creek Falls (WI3+) onsight
- Cocoa Puffs (WI3 | 2 pitches) onsight
- The Pricecicle (WI3)
- Willard Canyon Waterfall (WI2-3 | 4 pitches)
ALPINE
Climb 3 Technical Peaks (AI2-3)
- Liberty Ridge | Mount Rainer (AI2-3 | Grade IV)
- Reid Glacier Headwall | Mount Hood (AI3 | Grade III)
- Leuthold Couloir | Mount Hood (AI2 | Grade II)
- Ford – Stettner Couloir | Grand Teton (AI2-3 | Grade II)
- Middle Teton Glacier Route | Middle Teton (5.5, AI2 | Grade II)
or
or
Climb 1 Foreign peak above 17,000 ft
- Sajama (21,460 ft) | Bolivia/Chile
Climb 1 Foreign peak above 20,000 ft
- Sajama (21,460 ft) | Bolivia/Chile
Climb 3 US peaks above 14,000 ft
- Greys Peak (14,259 ft)
- Torreys Peak (14,259 ft)
- Mount Massive (14,429 ft) Turned around in a thunderstorm
SPLITBOARD MOUNTAINEERING
Climb and Ski from the summit of 5 Mountains (1 technical | 1 above 14k ft)
- Mount Superior | East Ridge –> Cardiac Chutes (S3)
- Broad’s Fork Twins | East Ridge –> Lisa Falls Couloir (S4)
- Baldy Peak (11,068 ft) | North Ridge –> Little Chute (S4) / Main Chute (S3+) – Alta, UT
- Mount Adams | South Route
- Mount Whitney | Mountaineers Route
- Mount Hood | Pearly Gates
Gym
Boulder 3 V8s
Boulder 30 V7s
Redpoint 5.13a
Train during the summer
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