Spring/Summer/Fall

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Finishing Up my Climbing Goals for 2018 and Starting New Goals for 2019

Every year, I try to set up a list of achievable climbing goals that will help me focus on improving the areas where I am the weakest. In 2017, my main focus was pushing grades. I focused on number grades as a benchmark for where I wanted to be as a climber. I didn't quite reach my goal, but I did notice big improvements in my redpointing and onsighting ability throughout the year. Here is where I got with my goals ... Read more

Climbing the Direct North Ridge of Mount Stuart in Washington (5.9+ | 2,900ft)

In the summer of last year (2017), we attempted the Direct North Ridge on Mount Stuart, but retreated once we reached the notch about 1,500ft up the route. Storm clouds had completely covered the peak above, and without sufficient rain gear, we were afraid we would become hypothermic if we got wet. We figured our best choice was to rappel and find shelter under some of the large boulders at the base of the route. We ended up "sleeping" on the ... Read more

Rock Climbing Around Tahoe, CA

Kim and I recently took a trip out to San Francisco to visit our friend Brent and see his new place. We didn't really have any plans to do any rock climbing, but inevitably it's what we always end up doing. After spending a few days in the city riding bikes across the Golden Gate Bridge and handing out with friends, we loaded up the car and drove up to North Tahoe to a climbing place called The Emeralds. This place ... Read more

How to Climb 5.12

My fingers were bleeding. They popped off the crimp I was pulling on and as they did the knuckles dug across the wall. I dabbed them on my pants and then stuffed them into my chalk bag. The white powder on my knuckles saturated and turned red. Flaps of skin stuck out around the pooling blood and I dabbed them on my pants again. I pulled myself back up the rope and stuck the move that I had just fallen off ... Read more

Rock Climbing in El Potrero Chico, Mexico

For New Years every year, Kim and I team up with our friend Brent for a trip somewhere "warm" to get away from the bad air and cold temps in SLC. This year, we decided to take a trip down to El Potrero Chico because it provides some awesome limestone multipitch climbing and because that video of Alex Honnold free soloing there is ridiculously awesome. We had some skymiles, so we booked flights to San Antonio and then caught a bus that ... Read more

Almost Free Soloing Standard Ridge (5.6 | 9 Pitches)

Kirk recently climbed Standard Ridge in Big Cottonwood with our friend Nathan. Not long after he suggested we solo it. After a few weeks, an opportune day arose and so we went for it. We brought our harness, a light twin rope, and a super small rack just in case we got intimidated. We scrambled up the chossy beginning of the route and made our way to a steep face that took us to the main exposed ridge. We followed this ... Read more

Ellingwood Ledges Direct Start (5.7) | Colorado Alpinism

We began our hike in around 4:00am and made our way to the base of the direct start of the Ellingwood Arete. With two teams of two, Martin and Brent started up the first, 5.5/5.6 pitch while Kim and I waited restlessly to begin. Kim and I started climbing once Brent had made some progress on the pitch. The route began on an insecure slab that traversed left into a large, low-angle dihedral, topping out on a large ledge with poor ... Read more

Climbing Open Book on Lone Peak in the Wasatch (5.7 | 4 Pitches)

Lone Peak Cirque is one of the most amazing places that the Wasatch has to offer in terms of scenery and awesome, high quality granite climbing. The hike is steep and grueling, but once you enter the meadow at the top of Jacob's Ladder, the cirque comes into view and the steep hiking is behind you. The cliffs slowly move closer to you as you hike. You finally reach the cirque and the walls tower around you. It's very impressive. Once in ... Read more

Climbing The North Chimney of Castleton Tower in Moab, UT (5.9 | 3 Pitches)

Castleton Tower is an iconic climbing destination for trad climbers all over the world. With two routes on it rated in the 5.9 range, it makes it one of the first towers that many climbers do. Because if this, the tower is popular and there are generally multiple parties on every route. We chose to do the North Chimney route on the tower because we heard it was cleaner and more aesthetic line. The 5.9- vs 5.9+ of Kor Ingalls also ... Read more

Climbing the Mountaineer’s Route on Elephant’s Perch (Video) | Sawtooth Mountains, Idaho

A few weeks ago, my friend Kirk and I were trying to decide on an adventure. Being from Salt Lake, we had plans to go to Yosemite, but ended up not working out for the timeframe that we wanted. We did have a couple days to make something happen, so the Elephant's Perch stood out to us as a moderate climb, short drive and easy approach. We left Salt Lake around 10:00am on a Thursday and drove the 6 hours to the ... Read more
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