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scottstevnson

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@kim.westover and I boulder at the gym together a lot. It’s kind of funny because we have almost exact opposite styles of climbing. She’ll flash overhanging crimp ladders that I can’t even get off the ground on, and I’ll do dynamic power moves and lockoffs on sloper that she can’t do either. You’d think we’d be more similar since we climb and train together ~3 times a week. Seems like she probably has better technique and finger strength and I am just good at not-actual-climbing styles of problems 😂. Oh well I guess. It’s cool to watch her crush even though I’m secretly crying inside with jealousy.

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I can’t believe it’s been over a year since what is likely my favorite day in the mountains. It’s not often that you find yourself in a perfect balance between unknown and pursuit; when you fear your objective as equally as you wish to overcome it. It is in this environment where you get to push yourself beyond your comfort zone and into a place that cannot be explained. It’s a place that is documented in films and books because we all strive to reach it. I was lucky enough to take a risk and put myself into a situation where success was only possible by pure determination, and in this determination I’ve never felt more alive. With @kirk_hilton
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“Heaven’s not a place where you go when you die. It’s that moment in life when you actually feel alive.”
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📸: The summit of Mount Stuart at sunset via the Direct North Ridge + Gendarme. ~28 pitches at 5.9+ and one North America’s 50 classic climbs.

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Pretty psyched on our adventure today. Kirk and I linked Weed Killer (.11a) into Weed B Gone (.11c/d) which goes through all the roofs up and right of me in this photo. We both sent the first 2 pitches, but my foot slipped pulling the crux 3rd pitch 😣😣. I immediately pulled back on and sent the crux. Hilariously close to an onsight. I guess we have an excuse to climb this awesome route again. It feels good to have graduated from the conga line on outside corner and to be able to push ourselves on a harder, more obscure route like this one. Also fun to get on something put up by the guys at IME who have contributed so much to the Wasatch and climbing in general. Thanks for the photo @kirk_hilton

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Flashed my first V4 today, but it must’ve been soft because I fell off the top of a V5 about 20 times and didn’t send... There are so many awesome climbing places near Salt Lake, sometimes it’s hard to choose what to do, but Kim and I have been trying out Joe’s a bit and haven’t been upset about it. Photo: @kim.westover | Shit (V4).

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Wore ourselves out on some harder stuff that didn’t go today, but was happy to still get this one at the end of the day. Contact (V5). Video: @kim.westover

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Got out to climb in Ogden today with @kirk_hilton and am psyched to send another .12a. My first try on this thing I got chewed up and spit out. After lowering down, I had to change my mindset from thinking I SHOULD be able to send to telling myself I need to fight super hard for it. The crux dyno move felt harder to me than the crux move on Left Pile (.12b), but you have a huge ledge to stand on here before the dyno and on Left Pile you are fairly pumped when you get into the crux. Who knows. 🤷‍♀️ Grades are weird. But trying hard, getting shut down, and pushing through is fun.

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Stones taught me to fly

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My schedule has been really weird lately. It’s been hard to get outside. That, combined with a recent lack of inspiration, has forced me to find new, quicker forms of exploration. Bouldering outside is a type of climbing I haven’t really sought out and in the last month I’ve probably done more of it than in the entire past seven years of my climbing. Sometimes, you gotta go with the flow and let yourself get psyched where you can. And as a byproduct you get to tick off some classic boulders that you probably would’ve just glanced over. Photo: @sohmbody on one of my favorite problems to run laps on.

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Nice weekend in City of Rocks with a fun crew: @kim.westover @sohmbody @__lindseymay__ @alpineorbust and #bartgram | We spent the weekend chasing the sun, making delicious camp meals, sitting around the fire, getting shutdown on hard routes and sending a few as well. Thanks for the cool pic @__lindseymay__

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Happy Birthday to this diamond in the rough. This salty dog. This guacamole on my burrito. Sometimes you meet someone and it just clicks. Happy you are my partner in life! Love you 😘

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Took me a few separate days of battling since I first tried this one in April. Stoked to finally get it. Always rad to do routes put up by legends like Merrill Bitter. Left Pile (.12b). Vid 1: falling off the crux. Vid 2: sticking it.

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Rad to watch @kirk_hilton send this line last weekend. Stoked to get back on it and redeem myself 😂

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Didn’t send anything cool this weekend, but I’m gonna keep on this kick with another video from this spring. This is from my redpoint of All Chalk and No Action (.12a). I had been wanting to do this route for a really long time. I thought it would suit my style, but when I tried it on TR, it felt impossible. After a few tries it miraculously came together and the next week I came back up and put it down on lead. Unfortunately, this video doesn’t include the crux sequence, but does include what I thought was the crux move which is the foot movement that I make with my left foot at the beginning of the video. I’ve seen people go far right near the beginning and then trend in left to this point on the wall. I did start in the dihedral initially, but quickly moved out to the face pulling on bad crimps and feet on the face and climbing straight up through the first 2 bolts. Who else has done this thing? What’d you think of it?

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Continuing my video theme, this is from last November. The upper crux of Green A Direct (.10a) — the first 3 pieces of gear I placed on this route are just for pretend 😂. Video by @kim.westover belay by @kirk_hilton

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Didn’t onsight this one, but got it 2nd-ish try. Really awkward, bouldery start. I didn’t think I was going to do it this try because I felt like I was flailing. I forgot where the right hold was and just flopped my way to the good hold up and left. Do you like watching videos of climbing or are pics better? Let me know! Crux move of “Captain Tight Pants” (.11c) from yesterday. Video by @kim.westover

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Fun day out climbing in AF canyon with @kim.westover and @kirk_hilton

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Got some early morning craggin in today. Thanks for always spreading the stoke @kirk_hilton

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Was feeling like I hadn’t gotten on many harder multipitch climbs in a while. It was fun to tick off a hard (for me) pitch a few hundred feet off the deck yesterday. Photo from @kirk_hilton on Hell Raiser (.10b) before linking up into Till Hell Freezes Over (.11b)

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Linked Hell Raiser into Til Hell Freezes Over with @kirk_hilton this morning before the blazing heat. The crux is a desperate (.11b) slab after pulling over a bulge. Barely held it together on the onsight 😂

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