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Had the first real temps of the season, but then t

Had the first real temps of the season, but then the snow came. With @kim.westover and @amandakathleeen

Adam Driver. Colored pencil.

Adam Driver. Colored pencil.

You are tracks in the snow, blown over in a stor

You are tracks
in the snow,
blown over
in a storm.

A headlamp
faltering
on a cliffside
in the dark.

The grandest oasis
revealing
dry desolation
in the desert sun.

And I am lost.

Had a weekend of camping and climbing in the Creek

Had a weekend of camping and climbing in the Creek. Temps were surprisingly good. Cracks were surprisingly sandy. My endurance was surprisingly above average. And I was surprisingly able to send a few things.

Mustache Mike cruising the top half of this super long classic after I flailed for an hour trying to clean out all the sand on the bottom half. Turns out Mike is comfortable climbing with sand in his eyes… Should’ve brought a broom.

It was a little chilly in AF this morning… Pic b

It was a little chilly in AF this morning…
Pic by @sohmbody

Although I did not know it at the time, and I did

Although I did not know it at the time, and I did not know there was a word to describe it, this was my first time experiencing type 2 fun.

I was horribly equipped and Ill-prepared on so many levels, but I guess, like a heroin addict, I’ve been chasing that feeling ever since.

Pick it up.
Pick it all up,
and start again.
You’ve got a warm heart,
you’ve got a beautiful brain,
but it’s disintegrating…
You could still be
what you want to;
what you said you were
when I met you.

Spent a week or so in Colorado with some alpine ob

Spent a week or so in Colorado with some alpine objectives in mind, but the weather took a dark turn so we went up to Vedauwoo for a few days. Kinda forgot how to crack climb, but it was pretty fun getting destroyed. With @kim.westover @betterbrent @listee01

It seems like a lot of folks rip on Colorado or ju

It seems like a lot of folks rip on Colorado or just complain about routes everywhere. “Oh this route was lame because there’s a ledge,” or “that route feels 2 grades easier than MP says.” “I belay with a grigri.” “I don’t use a PAS.” Honestly, who gives a shit. It’s not like the First ascentionist created the rock formation. It’s not like they gave the rock it’s attributes to make it the difficulty they want. I’ve literally had fun on 5.6 choss, immaculate 5.11 granite, and glued together 5.12 garbage. Climbing is FUN!! Quit complaining about everything. 😣😣

First time in RMNP. Psyched to tick off another on

First time in RMNP. Psyched to tick off another one of the 50 classic climbs of North America. So far none of them have disappointed. I guess it’s hard to be disappointed climbing to the top of a 1000+ ft monolith. Photo by @betterbrent

Who is this person and what do they want from me

Who is this person
and what do they
want from me?
I don’t know,
but I can’t give it to them,
and even if I could,
would it be enough?

So deep bro… I know. Been struggling with this idea for a while now. It was nice to put to words.

Anyways, It was a nice weekend climbing and hanging out with motivated, positive folks. Sharing the psych!

Made some progress on this 12c that was pretty cool even if Jonathan Siegrist only bolted it so the wall could have a warm up.

Thanks for the fun times y’all.

Photo by: @greenbreezytrees

I’ve been wanting to do the Grand as a “trail

I’ve been wanting to do the Grand as a “trail run” for a few years now, but am always a bit weary of soloing.

However, it was really nice to replace the rack and ropes with tennis shoes and be able to cruise up and down quickly. @kirk_hilton and I weren’t really sure what our speed would be like, but we weren’t really worried about a specific time, just tried to move steady and efficient. We hit the lower saddle at 3hrs and 15mins, the summit in 5 hrs and 21 mins from the car, and after cautiously downclimbing back down the OS and the choss back to the lower saddle, the tentative goal of a sub 10hr started to seem more realistic. So we picked up our pace and once we hit the dirt trail out of garnet canyon we jogged back to the car for a 9hr 48min time round trip. It’s not lightning fast, but I’m proud of kirk and I for being efficient and feeling solid mentally and physically for the entirety of the journey.

It was also a bonus to share some time with some old friends on the mountain: @ivantheintrepid @upnadam.info @quicktyson

Uintas today with Bart and Mike. Psyched to battle

Uintas today with Bart and Mike. Psyched to battle through and send “Ghost Dance (.12b)” my 2nd of the grade.

Fun few day trip up to the cirque with @kirk_hilto

Fun few day trip up to the cirque with @kirk_hilton. We spent a lot of time lounging on the grass and watching a few parties climb various walls. Managed a quick jaunt up Center Thumb while it was mostly in the shade.

Wild Iris summed up in 2 photos:

Wild Iris summed up in 2 photos:

I sent my first outdoor V7 today!! (Stephan’s Di

I sent my first outdoor V7 today!! (Stephan’s Dihedral). I think it was mostly a mental barrier for me and I glad to have broken through.

I hired a coach in February and have been training physically, but the last few weeks I have also been working on a few things in my mind. Positivity mostly, but also subtle things:

The specific, minute features of the holds, the wind, the bird sounds, visualization of success, positive self talk, presence and body connection.

For example:
Close eyes. Visualize success. Open eyes. Breathe. Left foot on good edge. Right foot far out on sloping lip. left hand on good edge. Right hand on crimp with thumb. Pull off ground. Right hand high to bad sloping crimp. Engage core. Left hand into 3 finger undercling. breathe out. Left foot in to small edge. Shift body weight / left shoulder slightly down and left. Rock right foot high to good edge. Relax body. Breathe. Simultaneously pop off left foot, stand tall on right foot, and release left foot from. Hit right hand on good crimp. Back flag left foot. Left hand to bad crimp. Back flag steps back through to sloping edge. Bump left hand to lip.

I did not get the footy of the actual send 😂. But I thought this was funny because power screaming is not something I normally do.

“Utah man pretends to climb boulder.”

“Utah man pretends to climb boulder.”

Pic 3: I tried to hike Gannett Peak via Tourist Cr

Pic 3: I tried to hike Gannett Peak via Tourist Creek on 2 separate occasions. The route is 36 miles round trip, 6k vert, dangerous river crossings, and lots of boulder hopping.

My first attempt, the weather was perfect until the summit day when there was a gnarly thunderstorm.

The 2nd attempt rained the entire time. It had recently snowed 2ft, by which we were delayed avoiding snow to prevent post-holing, and with limited avy knowledge we weren’t sure what was safe and what wasn’t. After being damp for 3 days and getting ravaged by mosquitos, and ultimately having our spirits broken, we bailed just below the summit again.

On the 2nd trip, we camped at this lake in a pass filled with snow. The previous attempt, this pass was green and had ferrets swimming across the lake. That night camped at the shore, we heard large rock falls cascading down from the cliffs up the hillside above our tent.

I remember putting my backpack uphill from me to protect me and hoping that rocks weren’t trundling towards us.

Pic 2: This might be my favorite photo I’ve ever

Pic 2: This might be my favorite photo I’ve ever taken. I was at a very interesting stage in my climbing. I wanted so badly to be an alpine climber, but I was terrified of heights and climbing in general, to be honest.

I reached goals through pure stubborn will.

Wes and I started our ascent up the Grand Teton at 11pm with the upper Exum as our goal.

We roped up for sections and soloed sections of the route and ultimately were successful in a 22 hour push.

I remember a very specific moment on this climb. Stress and fear overwhelmed me for a large portion of our way up, but when I led up the friction pitch which is the crux of the route, I stopped at the ledge above the hardest moves when I knew we were gonna get to the top.

For a few moments, I let the weight of the goal slip off my shoulders and I looked around at the middle teton, the exposure, and the glaciers below and just thought, “Wow. This is amazing.”

It’s a moment that will stick forever with me and is probably the first time I felt like an alpine climber.

Hey everyone, I thought I’d do a little photo se

Hey everyone, I thought I’d do a little photo series. I have an old hard drive with a bunch of old photos. I’m currently moving them to my Google photos account. It’s been fun to see pics that I forgot about from some of the older, “bigger” objectives I did back in the day.

Pic 1: this is from when I did Mount Shasta with my friend Brent ( @betterbrent ) and his dad. We did this in June 2014 and is was super, super cold. The rocks here are covered in ice/frost.

I kind of feel bad actually because I didn’t bring enough layers on this trip and had to keep moving super fast to stay warm. I kept trying to wait for Brent’s dad, but if I stopped for more than 2 minutes, I started shaking. So I charged forward and we passed all the parties in front of us and got to the top way before everyone else.

Brent’s dad, who was in his late 60s at the time was kind of pissed when we topped out.

😬😬😬

Sorry Robert.

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