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Climbing Goals for 2020

2020 Climbing Goals: Here are my ideas so far for some goals for the year. They will likely become more specific over the course of the year: General Redpoint 15 Traditional 5.10 (5 >= .10c | 5 multipitch): The Fracture (5.10d) South Tahoe, CA redpoint Cut Loose (5.10d) Red Rock Canyon, NV redpoint Touch of […]

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Climbing the Direct North Ridge of Mount Stuart in Washington (5.9+ | 2,900ft)

In the summer of last year (2017), we attempted the Direct North Ridge on Mount Stuart, but retreated once we reached the notch about 1,500ft up the route. Storm clouds had completely covered the peak above, and without sufficient rain gear, we were afraid we would become hypothermic if we got wet. We figured our […]

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Ellingwood Ledges Direct Start (5.7) | Colorado Alpinism

We began our hike in around 4:00am and made our way to the base of the direct start of the Ellingwood Arete. With two teams of two, Martin and Brent started up the first, 5.5/5.6 pitch while Kim and I waited restlessly to begin. Kim and I started climbing once Brent had made some progress […]

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Climbing Open Book on Lone Peak in the Wasatch (5.7 | 4 Pitches)

Lone Peak Cirque is one of the most amazing places that the Wasatch has to offer in terms of scenery and awesome, high quality granite climbing. The hike is steep and grueling, but once you enter the meadow at the top of Jacob’s Ladder, the cirque comes into view and the steep hiking is behind […]

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Climbing the Mountaineer’s Route on Elephant’s Perch (Video) | Sawtooth Mountains, Idaho

A few weeks ago, my friend Kirk and I were trying to decide on an adventure. Being from Salt Lake, we had plans to go to Yosemite, but ended up not working out for the timeframe that we wanted. We did have a couple days to make something happen, so the Elephant’s Perch stood out […]

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Climbing Horns of Satan (.10c | 8 Pitches) on Devil’s Castle at Alta, Utah

I had done a little bit of reading about Black Streak on Devil’s Castle before my friend suggested the neighboring route “Horns of Satan.” I am glad he did. The route is traditional protection, but because it is Limestone, it is mostly bolted and incredibly chossy. The harder sections are very well bolted and incredibly […]

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Climbing the Thumb in Little Cottonwood Canyon (5.7, 10 pitches)

The Thumb isn’t the greatest climb in Little Cottonwood, but it is an aesthetic feature within the canyon. With 10 or 11 pitches of 5.7, it sounded like an awesome adventure to Kirk, Wes and me. We met at the Gate parking at 6am and began hiking to the base shortly after. By 7am, we […]

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Climbing Thunderbolt Peak, Sierra Nevada Range, CA

The Sierra Nevada Mountain Range is one of the gnarliest areas I have ever been too. The exposure of the rock makes 3rd class climbing feel like 5th. One of my first mountain climbing adventures was in this range and it forever changed my outlook on life. Since that first experience, I had only returned […]

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Alpine Climbing in the Wasatch: Lowe Route (5.8) | Lone Peak Cirque

We began hiking up Jacob’s Ladder trail just as the sun started lighting the horizon and the stars faded into the dull grey. The low-light, black and white landscape slowly filled with color as the brightness of the day began to warm the cool fall air. Step by step, Kirk and I lugged our climbing gear, food, and water […]

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Classic Climbing in the Tetons: CMC Route on Mount Moran

I find it interesting how intense the alpine world is. I have spent the last few years gradually climbing harder and harder mountains. It never ceases to amaze me how insignificant I feel when I commit to a big climb. The CMC Route on Mount Moran is an Alpine grade II and the face is […]

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