Posts Tagged: Classic Climbing

I think this climb is considered one of the Little Cottonwood classics, but I am not sure. Regardless, it was a really fun route. It is located in the Gate Buttress within the Schoolroom area. To get to the climb, you follow a trail through the bouldering area and out onto a large boulder field. […]

I find it interesting how intense the alpine world is. I have spent the last few years gradually climbing harder and harder mountains. It never ceases to amaze me how insignificant I feel when I commit to a big climb. The CMC Route on Mount Moran is an Alpine grade II and the face is […]

This route was pretty good! As I mention in my previous Squamish post, the rating felt off. It is rated a 5.8 in the guide book and 5.8 on Mountain Project and I am ok with that rating, because the climbing felt about 5.8. However, the gear placements are what felt weird to me. For a route […]

This route gets overshadowed because it is right next to PentaPitch and Sasquatch which are both awesome climbs. However, I think “Stiffler’s Mom” is a really great climb. We only did pitches one through three because the route is 12 pitches and 5.11a… I normally wouldn’t write about a route unless I lead it all, […]

If you mention the route “Sasquatch” to the trad climbing community around Salt Lake City, you might here comments like this: “The best finger crack in Little Cottonwood,” or “the most aesthetic 5.9 in Little Cottonwood.” This route is fantastic. I top roped it following my friend, Jesse, last summer when I was first starting […]

Spring is here in Utah and that has meant a few weekend trips to Moab, Indian Creek, and Castle Valley. On the first trip to Indian Creek we jumped on “Jolly Rancher,” a 5.10, 140ft hand crack. I have never led in Indian Creek before, I had never led a 5.10 before, and I had […]

This is my first post about a classic sport climb in Big Cottonwood, so we’ll see how it goes. Black Monday is a near 4 star 5.11a sport route. The route starts off as a bit of a boulder problem. It becomes less than vertical and allows for a no hands rest before moving through […]