Posts Tagged: trad climbing

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Rock Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Call it what you please

I think this climb is considered one of the Little Cottonwood classics, but I am not sure. Regardless, it was a really fun route. It is located in the Gate Buttress within the Schoolroom area. To get to the climb, you follow a trail through the bouldering area and out onto a large boulder field. […]

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Alpine Climbing in the Wasatch | Eleventh Hour, Sundial Peak

Sundial Peak and Lake Blanche are a classic hiking destination for many people in the Salt Lake Valley. It’s a short, 20 minute drive and a rewarding 2 hour hike to the lake, but the views are spectacular. It is easily in the top 3 most esthetic hiking destinations in the Wasatch. Having said that, Sundial […]

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Alpine Climbing in the Wasatch: Lowe Route (5.8) | Lone Peak Cirque

We began hiking up Jacob’s Ladder trail just as the sun started lighting the horizon and the stars faded into the dull grey. The low-light, black and white landscape slowly filled with color as the brightness of the day began to warm the cool fall air. Step by step, Kirk and I lugged our climbing gear, food, and water […]

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Climbing Sweet Jane in Little Cottonwood

Sweet Jane sits in the same area as Beckey’s Wall and Satan’s Corner so it is hard to compare with these two super classic climbs, but I still found it to be an enjoyable two pitches. The route starts by scrambling to the actual base of the climb up a 15 foot easy 5th class […]

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Classic Climbing in Squamish, British Columbia: Octupus Garden in the Shade

This route was pretty good! As I mention in my previous Squamish post, the rating felt off. It is rated a 5.8 in the guide book and 5.8 on Mountain Project and I am ok with that rating, because the climbing felt about 5.8. However, the gear placements are what felt weird to me. For a route […]

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Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Stiffler’s Mom (Pitches One – Three)

This route gets overshadowed because it is right next to PentaPitch and Sasquatch which are both awesome climbs. However, I think “Stiffler’s Mom” is a really great climb. We only did pitches one through three because the route is 12 pitches and 5.11a… I normally wouldn’t write about a route unless I lead it all, […]

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Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Squeeze my Lemon

“Squeeze my Lemon” is one of my favorite climbs in Little Cottonwood. My friends and I just led it again this year, so I thought I’d add it to the blog. I don’t know if it is technically considered a classic climb, but it has 3 stars and personally, I think it is the best […]

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Classic Climbing City of Rocks, Idaho: Wheat Thin

Because it has been so rainy in Salt Lake City the last few weeks, Kirk and I were able to sneak away to the City of Rocks on Saturday to take advantage of a day of clear weather. We got on three routes each. At the city, you have to build anchors at the top of […]

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Indian Creek: 2 Weekends, 3 Classic Classic Climbs and a Desert Tower

Spring is here in Utah and that has meant a few weekend trips to Moab, Indian Creek, and Castle Valley. On the first trip to Indian Creek we jumped on “Jolly Rancher,” a 5.10, 140ft hand crack. I have never led in Indian Creek before, I had never led a 5.10 before, and I had […]

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Classic Climbing and Splitboarding in Little Cottonwood: Winter on the South Ridge and South Face of Mount Superior

This has to be one of the most intense all-around adventures I have ever done, and it happened in my own backyard of Little Cottonwood Canyon. I got the crazy idea to climb a classic winter alpine route and ski a classic winter descent. Here’s how it went down: We got to the base of […]

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