Finishing Up my Climbing Goals for 2018 and Starting New Goals for 2019

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Every year, I try to set up a list of achievable climbing goals that will help me focus on improving the areas where I am the weakest. In 2017, my main focus was pushing grades. I focused on number grades as a benchmark for where I wanted to be as a climber. I didn’t quite reach my goal, but I did notice big improvements in my redpointing and onsighting ability throughout the year.

Here is where I got with my goals for 2017:

My main goal was to essentially redpoint ONE 5.12 and TWENTY Sport 5.11s throughout the year
I haven’t completely reached this goal yet, but I am happy to have:

Redpointed TWO 5.12s (Single pitch):
Liquid Oxygen (5.12a) American Fork Canyon, American Fork, UT
Naked Nebula (5.12a) American Fork Canyon, American Fork, UT

Redpointed FIVE 5.11s (Single pitch):
Right Pile (5.11d) Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Pocket Full of Trundles (5.11+) American Fork Canyon, Alta, UT
License to Thrill (5.11c) American Fork Canyon, UT
Public Nuisance (5.11c) Hellgate, Alta, UT
Juggernaut (5.11b) American Fork Canyon, UT

Flashed TWO 5.11s (Single Pitch):
Walk the Plank (5.11-) The Narrows, Stansbury Mountains, UT
Super Size Me (5.11a) The Emeralds, Tahoe, CA

Onsighted ONE 5.11 (Single Pitch):
Cotton Mouth King (5.11a) Hellgate, Alta, UT

Redpointed THREE 5.11s (Alpine/Multi Pitch):
Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b | 6 Pitches) Devil’s Castle | Alta, UT
Evil Eye (5.11a | 7 Pitches) Devil’s Castle | Alta, UT
Stiffler’s Mom (5.11a | 6 Pitches) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT

Onsighted ONE 5.11 (Alpine/Multi Pitch):
Chimera (5.11a | 5 Pitches) Honeycomb Canyon | Solitude, UT

A few other notable accomplishments to mention for 2017:

Trad/Gear Climbing Ascents
All lot of the 5.11 multi pitch routes above had some gear on them throughout.
Flashed Loch Ness Monster (LCC | .10d)
Flashed Incredible Hand Crack (Indian Creek | .10c)
Onsighted Endless Torment (LCC | .10b)
Redpointed Green Adjective Direct (LCC | .10a Scary)
Flashed Half a Finger (LCC | 5.9+)
Redpointed Smitty’s Wet Dream (LCC | 5.9 Scary)
Redpointed After the Fall (LCC | 5.9)

N.A. 50 Classics Ascents
Climbed Direct North Ridge of Mount Stuart (~25 pitches | 5.9+)

Bouldering Ascents
Twisted (LCC | V4+)
Standard Overhang (LCC | V3)

Gym Ascents
29 V6s
8 V7s


2018 Goals:

For 2018, I’m guessing that this post will morph and evolve over the next six months as I sort of reshape my goals for the year. For now, I would like to just kind of spit out some ideas that are starting to form in my head and fill in the gaps throughout the first part of the year:

Single Pitch

Repoint 20 Gear-Only 5.10s:
Equipment Right (.10b)
The Flakes? (.10b)

Repoint 15 Sport 5.11b+ (Onsight 5)
Litmus Test (.11c)
Edge of Chaos (.11b)
Division (.11d)
Punany (.11b/c)

Repoint 5 Trad 5.11s
Scarface (.11b)
Equipment Overhang (.11a)

Repoint 10 Sport 5.12s (5 that are 12b+):
All Chalk (.12a)
Black Sails (.12a/b)

Multi Pitch

Repoint 1 Bolted 5.12 (5+ pitches):

Redpoint 1 Gear-Only 5.11 (5+ pitches)

Climb 5 N.A. 50 Classics:
Lotus Flower Tower (5.10+ | 18 pitches)
East Buttress – Middle Cathedral (.10c | 11 pitches)
Royal Arches (.10- | 15 pitches)
Regular Route – Fairview Dome (5.9 | 8+ pitches)

Redpoint 5 Multi Pitch (5.11b+ bolts & gear):
Levitation 29 (.11b/c | 9 pitches)

Gym

Boulder 3 V8s
Redpoint 5.13a
Train during the summer

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