Finishing Up my Climbing Goals for 2018 and Starting New Goals for 2019

Home » Blog » Trek Type » Alpine Climbing » Finishing Up my Climbing Goals for 2018 and Starting New Goals for 2019

Every year, I try to set up a list of achievable climbing goals that will help me focus on improving the areas where I am the weakest. In 2018, my main focus was pushing grades. I focused on number grades as a benchmark for where I wanted to be as a climber. I didn’t quite reach my goal, but I did notice big improvements in my redpointing and onsighting ability throughout the year.

Here is where I got with my goals for 2018:

My main goal was to essentially redpoint ONE 5.12 and TWENTY Sport 5.11s throughout the year
I haven’t completely reached this goal yet, but I am happy to have:

Redpointed TWO 5.12s (Single pitch):
Liquid Oxygen (5.12a) American Fork Canyon, American Fork, UT
Naked Nebula (5.12a) American Fork Canyon, American Fork, UT

Redpointed FIVE 5.11s (Single pitch):
Right Pile (5.11d) Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Pocket Full of Trundles (5.11+) American Fork Canyon, Alta, UT
License to Thrill (5.11c) American Fork Canyon, UT
Public Nuisance (5.11c) Hellgate, Alta, UT
Juggernaut (5.11b) American Fork Canyon, UT

Flashed TWO 5.11s (Single Pitch):
Walk the Plank (5.11-) The Narrows, Stansbury Mountains, UT
Super Size Me (5.11a) The Emeralds, Tahoe, CA

Onsighted ONE 5.11 (Single Pitch):
Cotton Mouth King (5.11a) Hellgate, Alta, UT

Redpointed THREE 5.11s (Alpine/Multi Pitch):
Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b | 6 Pitches) Devil’s Castle | Alta, UT
Evil Eye (5.11a | 7 Pitches) Devil’s Castle | Alta, UT
Stiffler’s Mom (5.11a | 6 Pitches) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT

Onsighted ONE 5.11 (Alpine/Multi Pitch):
Chimera (5.11a | 5 Pitches) Honeycomb Canyon | Solitude, UT

A few other notable accomplishments to mention for 2018:

Trad/Gear Climbing Ascents
All lot of the 5.11 multi pitch routes above had some gear on them throughout.
Flashed Loch Ness Monster (LCC | .10d)
Flashed Incredible Hand Crack (Indian Creek | .10c)
Onsighted Endless Torment (LCC | .10b)
Redpointed Green Adjective Direct (LCC | .10a Scary)
Flashed Half a Finger (LCC | 5.9+)
Redpointed Smitty’s Wet Dream (LCC | 5.9 Scary)
Redpointed After the Fall (LCC | 5.9)

N.A. 50 Classics Ascents
Climbed Direct North Ridge of Mount Stuart (~25 pitches | 5.9+)

Bouldering Ascents
Twisted (LCC | V4+)
Standard Overhang (LCC | V3)

Gym Ascents
30 V6s
9 V7s


2019 Goals:

For 2019, I’m guessing that this post will morph and evolve over the next six months as I sort of reshape my goals for the year. For now, I would like to just kind of spit out some ideas that are starting to form in my head and fill in the gaps throughout the first part of the year:

Single Pitch

Repoint 20 Gear-Only 5.10s:
Equipment Right (.10b)
The Flakes? (.10b)

Repoint 15 Sport 5.11b+ (Onsight 5)
Litmus Test (.11c)
Edge of Chaos (.11b)
Division (.11d)
Punany (.11b/c)

Repoint 5 Trad 5.11s
Scarface (.11b)
Equipment Overhang (.11a)

Repoint 10 Sport 5.12s (5 that are 12b+):
All Chalk (.12a)
Black Sails (.12a/b)

Multi Pitch

Repoint 1 5.12 (5+ pitches):

Redpoint 1 Gear-Only 5.11 (5+ pitches)

Redpoint 5 Multi Pitch (5.11b+ bolts & gear):
Levitation 29 (.11b/c | 9 pitches)

Alpine Rock

Climb 5 N.A. 50 Classics:
Lotus Flower Tower (5.10+ | 18 pitches)
East Buttress – Middle Cathedral (.10c | 11 pitches)
Royal Arches (.10- | 15 pitches)
Regular Route – Fairview Dome (5.9 | 8+ pitches)

ICE

Lead 5 WI3 Routes
1. Great White Icicle (WI3 | 4 Pitches) onsight (x5)
2. Squash Head (WI4 | 2 pitches) onsight
3. Battle Creek Falls (WI3+) onsight
4. The Pricecicle (WI3)
5. Willard Canyon Waterfall (WI2-3 | 4 pitches)

ALPINE

Climb 3 Technical Peaks (AI2-3)
1. Liberty Ridge | Mount Rainer (AI2-3 | Grade IV)
2. Reid Glacier Headwall | Mount Hood (AI3 | Grade III)
    or
2. Leuthold Couloir | Mount Hood (AI2 | Grade II)
3. Ford – Stettner Couloir | Grand Teton (AI2-3 | Grade II)
    or
3. Middle Teton Glacier Route | Middle Teton (5.5, AI2 | Grade II)

Climb 1 peak above 17,000 ft

Climb 3 peaks above 14,000 ft

SPLITBOARD MOUNTAINEERING

Climb and Ski from the summit of 5 Mountains (1 technical | 1 above 14k ft)
Mount Adams | South Route
Mount Whitney | Mountaineers Route
Mount Hood | Pearly Gates

Gym

Boulder 3 V8s
Redpoint 5.13a
Train during the summer

Leave a Comment