Climbing Sweet Jane in Little Cottonwood

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Sweet Jane sits in the same area as Beckey’s Wall and Satan’s Corner so it is hard to compare with these two super classic climbs, but I still found it to be an enjoyable two pitches.

The route starts by scrambling to the actual base of the climb up a 15 foot easy 5th class crack system. You walk up a gully and left along a ledge to stand about 15 feet below a set of chains. Then you scramble up another easy 5th class section and clip a draw to one of the chains and climb past towards another bolt.

Getting to this bolt requires a bit of a high step / mantel move. Then you climb a delicate slab past the bolt for another 15 feet to a crack. This slab section scared me a lot. It’s run out and harder then it looks and once you commit there’s no turning back.

Once in the crack the gear is great. You pull a somewhat difficult bulge and step out left across the face and into another crack system. You follow this crack up and over another small bulge to the chains and the end of the first pitch.

Pitch 2 traverses right of the chains to a large block where two crack systems begin and go up to the left. Follow the 2nd crack system past a pin and traverse right to a third crack. This step across is super fun. The crack goes up and levels out at a tree below a big roof.

You can continue around the roof to the right to Tingey’s Terror, which is pretty fun as well.

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