Climbing ‘Bilbo Baggins’ in Squamish, British Columbia

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To start off, I’d like to comment on the fact that the Squamish Guide Book rates the climbs differently than Mountain Project does. It’s a little confusing because the grades that I felt were a bit soft were rated harder and the ones I thought were hard were graded easier…

Anyways, Bilbo Baggins is a pretty awesome splitter on the far right of the Burgers and Fries area of the Smoke Bluffs in Squamish. It is rated 5.8 in the guide book, 5.9 on Mountain Project, but I thought it felt more like a 5.7 in comparison to some of the other 5.8s in Squamish.

It is a shorter climb that starts with tight hands and slowly widens over a bulge with a bit of a slab move that ends up on a nice ledge. I thought the crux of the climb was getting off this ledge and back into the wider crack that is cupped hand-sized.

You make a few awesome crack moves that are all about the same size and you hit a jug and then the chains. It is a pretty straight forward climb, but was really fun none the less.

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