I love this route. I think it is my favorite 5.8 in little cottonwood. It is stiff and scary. The route starts on a steep, sustained face for about 50 feet. It is every size. Perfect hands to fist. Fingers and face climbing. It as a good variety.
You pull over the face onto a big ledge were you can build an anchor and do the route as two pitches to avoid rope drag. Or you can keep climbing up a fist sized crack and some patina face holds into a small dihedral with some wild exposure to your left.
Try not to look down as you make the crux move that makes you feel like you are going to barn door out of the dihedral and into oblivion. Once you step up into the crack, the climbing gets a little easier but the dihedral disappears forcing you out onto the exposed face where you clip an old piton and make a big reach to a large rail. From here make the scary traverse left to the chains.
Just thinking of this route makes my hands sweat. It is so good. If you are a solid 5.8 trad leader and want to feel real scared, give this route a go.
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