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Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: After the Fall

This climb was a somewhat intimidating onsite for me. It’s long and 5.9. Usually, I try not to onsite 5.9 in little cottonwood because I still feel new enough to trad climbing that I don’t want to get myself in over my head too much, but I decided to give it a try anyways. I’m glad […]

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Alpine Climbing in the Wasatch: Lowe Route (5.8) | Lone Peak Cirque

We began hiking up Jacob’s Ladder trail just as the sun started lighting the horizon and the stars faded into the dull grey. The low-light, black and white landscape slowly filled with color as the brightness of the day began to warm the cool fall air. Step by step, Kirk and I lugged our climbing gear, food, and water […]

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Classic Climbing in the Tetons: CMC Route on Mount Moran

I find it interesting how intense the alpine world is. I have spent the last few years gradually climbing harder and harder mountains. It never ceases to amaze me how insignificant I feel when I commit to a big climb. The CMC Route on Mount Moran is an Alpine grade II and the face is […]

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Classic Climbing in Squamish, British Columbia: Octupus Garden in the Shade

This route was pretty good! As I mention in my previous Squamish post, the rating felt off. It is rated a 5.8 in the guide book and 5.8 on Mountain Project and I am ok with that rating, because the climbing felt about 5.8. However, the gear placements are what felt weird to me. For a route […]

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Climbing ‘Bilbo Baggins’ in Squamish, British Columbia

To start off, I’d like to comment on the fact that the Squamish Guide Book rates the climbs differently than Mountain Project does. It’s a little confusing because the grades that I felt were a bit soft were rated harder and the ones I thought were hard were graded easier… Anyways, Bilbo Baggins is a […]

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Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Stiffler’s Mom (Pitches One – Three)

This route gets overshadowed because it is right next to PentaPitch and Sasquatch which are both awesome climbs. However, I think “Stiffler’s Mom” is a really great climb. We only did pitches one through three because the route is 12 pitches and 5.11a… I normally wouldn’t write about a route unless I lead it all, […]

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Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Squeeze my Lemon

“Squeeze my Lemon” is one of my favorite climbs in Little Cottonwood. My friends and I just led it again this year, so I thought I’d add it to the blog. I don’t know if it is technically considered a classic climb, but it has 3 stars and personally, I think it is the best […]

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Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Sasquatch

If you mention the route “Sasquatch” to the trad climbing community around Salt Lake City, you might here comments like this: “The best finger crack in Little Cottonwood,” or “the most aesthetic 5.9 in Little Cottonwood.” This route is fantastic. I top roped it following my friend, Jesse, last summer when I was first starting […]

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Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: The Coffin

I have made it a policy for myself that I cannot write about a climb unless I lead it. So, I am happy to finally get to post about an amazing classic climb in Little Cottonwood called “The Coffin.” Anyone that climbs trad in the Salt Lake area knows or has at least heard of […]

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Classic Climbing City of Rocks, Idaho: Wheat Thin

Because it has been so rainy in Salt Lake City the last few weeks, Kirk and I were able to sneak away to the City of Rocks on Saturday to take advantage of a day of clear weather. We got on three routes each. At the city, you have to build anchors at the top of […]

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